At Cognito Hair, we value consistency, performance, and hair health. That’s why we’ve chosen Keune as our colour range. Their ongoing research and development focus on maintaining the integrity of the hair while delivering long-lasting, reliable colour results.
In recent years, there’s been a noticeable rise in requests for ammonia-free hair colour. But is ammonia-free colour actually a better option than ammonia-based colour? The answer isn’t as straightforward as you might think. Let’s explore both.
First things first: ammonia-free does not mean organic or entirely natural. These formulas still contain chemical alkaline agents designed to open the hair cuticle and allow colour to penetrate. Ammonia-free also doesn’t automatically mean gentler or safer for everyone.
Clients often request ammonia-free colour for a variety of valid reasons. These include sensitivity to smells, scalp sensitivity, pregnancy, IVF treatment, chemotherapy, or the belief that it’s less damaging to the hair and better for the environment. While these concerns are understandable, “better” is very individual and depends entirely on your hair, scalp, and desired result.
Ammonia-free colour ranges typically have a smaller colour portfolio, which can limit tonal options and lifting ability. Keune’s ammonia-free range is vegan, cruelty-free, PPD-free, and designed to deliver up to 100% grey coverage while being gentle on the scalp. It’s infused with organic argan oil, coconut oil, and phytokeratin to nourish and repair the hair, creating a glossy, aromatic finish with a strong eco-conscious philosophy. Read more about Keune’s ammonia-free hair colour in one of our previous blogs.
In ammonia-free colour, ammonia is replaced with monoethanolamine (MEA) or ethanolamine. This ingredient raises the hair’s pH and swells the cuticle so colour pigments can penetrate the cortex. Colour development still occurs through oxidation when mixed with hydrogen peroxide.
While MEA has a less pungent smell and feels gentler during application, it is less effective at lightening than ammonia and requires longer processing times. It also doesn’t rinse out as easily, which can lead to buildup, increased irritation, dryness, and colour fade if acid-based aftercare isn’t used. In some cases, it has been linked to dermatitis and hair shedding with repeated exposure.
Ammonia-based colour remains a professional favourite for a reason. Ammonia works quickly and effectively by raising the hair’s pH, opening the cuticle fully so colour molecules can penetrate deeply into the cortex. This makes it ideal for permanent colour, strong grey coverage, and long-lasting results.
While ammonia does have a stronger odour and can feel drying if misused, professional formulas like Keune Tinta Colour are carefully balanced. Keune’s ammonia-based colours contain silk protein to strengthen and condition the hair, alongside Solamer UV protection to prevent fading and maintain vibrancy with triple colour protection.
The formula is predominantly vegan, free from parabens and sulphates, and includes ingredients such as Cocamide to minimise scalp staining and irritation. It also offers a much broader colour portfolio, allowing for more precise, customised results while keeping the hair soft and healthy. Learn more about why ammonia is used in hair dyes in one of our previous blogs.
One of the most important factors in hair colouring isn’t ammonia, it’s PPD (para-phenylenediamine), a pigment responsible for most allergic reactions. Sensitivities can occur with any hair dye and are more common during hormonal changes such as pregnancy, premenstrual phases, and menopause.
At Cognito Hair, we’ve chosen Keune because both their ammonia and ammonia-free colour ranges are PPD-free. While Keune colours do contain PTD, it is 80% less likely to cause an allergic reaction than PPD. Regardless of the formula, skin testing is always essential for your safety.
Ammonia-based and ammonia-free hair colours both have their place. One is not better than the other; they simply serve different purposes. The right choice depends on your hair type, scalp condition, sensitivities, lifestyle, and the results you want to achieve.
What matters most is using a professional colour range, applied by an experienced colourist, followed by the correct aftercare to maintain hair health and colour longevity.
If you’re unsure which colour option is right for you, speak to one of our colour experts. We’ll guide you towards the best choice for your hair – safely, thoughtfully, and with results you’ll love! Click here to book a consultation at our hair salon in Wandsworth.
Until next time, choose knowledge, not trends, when it comes to your hair.
